有趣灵魂说
这是《纽约时报》为外国读者打造的一份上海旅行指南。中国第二大城市正以惊人速度蜕变：外滩变身当代艺术新地标，弄堂里藏着本帮美味，王家卫参与设计的茶室空间与人民公园相亲角共存——这座既未来又怀旧的城市，36小时亦可以领略它的万千气象。随着10天过境免签政策落地，一场沪上漫步比想象中更简单。
译文为原创，仅供个人学习使用
The New York Times ｜纽约时报
36 Hours in Shanghai - Things to Do and See
36小时玩转上海 - 景点与活动
By Erin Vivid Riley Photographs by Raul Ariano
Erin Vivid Riley travels to Shanghai often to visit her family.
作者：埃琳·维维德·莱利 摄影：劳尔·阿里亚诺
埃琳·维维德·莱利常赴上海探亲。
中国第二大城市仍在快速转型。除了豪华购物中心和虚拟现实体验，上海正将其独特的建筑遗产遗存重新打造为文化和餐饮目的地，营造出新的活力。向电动汽车的重大转型让街道更加安静，而不断扩展的高铁和地铁服务则让城市更加便捷。上海的日常生活几乎完全通过应用程序运行——用于预订、支付和交通——这带来了极大的便利，但也给旅行者带来了学习成本。然而，更容易的是：一项针对包括美国在内的数十个国家游客的、新的10天过境免签政策，是中国在疫情后边境管制解除后铺开欢迎垫的一种方式。
行 程
星期五
下午3点 艺术漫步
♥
外滩艺术中心185空间
外滩，上海滨水区，黄浦江沿岸矗立着新哥特式、巴洛克式和文艺复兴风格的建筑群，曾是全球工业巨头的所在地。如今，它已成为当代艺术的目的地。从蜂巢当代艺术中心（免费）开始，欣赏知名中国艺术家（如抽象画家兼雕塑家王滢滢）的大型作品。该画廊于2023年在一座前银行大楼内开放，其宏伟的彩色玻璃天窗本身就值得一游。向东两个街区，上海外滩美术馆的轮换展览——例如一个受法国理论家苏珊·塞泽尔作品启发的展览（至4月26日）——则聚焦实验性多媒体作品（免费）。自2024年开放以来，位于南面半英里处的外滩艺术中心185空间，已举办了将中国当代重量级人物（如画家赵刚、喻红）与国际知名艺术家（如安尼施·卡普尔）作品联袂展出的展览（免费）。
下午6点 采购小吃
♥
乘坐滴滴快车约六分钟，或向西步行近一英里，沿着霓虹灯闪烁、仅限步行的南京路——这座城市版的时代广场。在众多大型商场中，上海第一食品商店是一个小吃和街头美食大本营。在一楼，可以买到焦糖蝴蝶酥（每盒40元起）和凯司令的奶油蛋糕（每块12元起），这些美食备受喜爱，以至于上海市政府将其认定为城市非物质文化遗产的一部分。二楼有食品摊贩和一家超市，三楼则是许多上海流行快餐店的汇集地。
晚上7点 品尝蟹粉面
♥
蟹家大院
这座城市所处的长江三角洲的咸淡水水域，孕育了上海菜的精髓：大闸蟹。虽然丰收季在秋季，但有些菜单全年供应这一特色。位于外滩的蟹家大院餐厅对其怀有特别的敬意，其简朴的餐厅中央摆放着微缩的盆景假山景观。餐厅供应来自该地区首要产地阳澄湖的螃蟹。一份蟹粉浇头包含十几只拳头大小螃蟹的肉和蟹黄，可搭配面条或米饭（280元起）。加入足量的黑醋有助于化解这道菜肴的甜腻丰厚。
晚上9点 进入时光隧道
♥
和平饭店爵士酒吧
在永远面向未来的上海，要找到真正的时光胶囊很难，这座城市保存下来的建筑遗产相对较少。这就是和平饭店爵士酒吧——这座城市最古老的音乐场所之一——如此特别的原因。自1980年起，一支由五位成员组成的乐队（成员轮换，最年轻的也已70岁）每晚7点至11点演出。在每个小时的演出中，会有一位歌手加入，演唱几首邓丽君、周璇等昔日明星的老歌（每人最低消费418元；饮品118元起，小吃88元起）。
晚上10点 欣赏两处天际线
♥
Condé
上海实际上拥有两处天际线：城市西侧浦西的历史悠久的外滩，以及黄浦江东侧的浦东天际线。要在一幅全景中尽览这一切，请前往2023年开业的上海外滩丽晶酒店，它位于主滨江长廊北侧的河流转弯处。提前预订，在其露台餐厅Condé享用一杯波本鸡尾酒（138元起），同时沉浸在浦东的霓虹光芒和浦西的柔和光辉之中。
复兴公园夜生活综合体INS内的KZ俱乐部
星期六
上午10点 开启小笼包美食之旅
♥
曼曼汤包
建国西路的一个街区是小笼包爱好者的天堂。从 曼曼 汤包开始，李戴良先生和他的儿子在这里现做特别精致的小笼包——一种蒸熟的汤包，内馅是凝固的猪肉高汤，蒸熟后即化为汤汁（八只20元起）。附近的富春小笼（约1885年开业）则提供出色的生煎馒头：一种更大、更厚实的汤包，采用煎制方式（四只18元起）。在灯笼馄饨，有两种馄饨汤可供选择：一种是猪肉竹笋荠菜馅（25元），另一种是猪肉虾仁馅（32元）。虽然传统上是清汤，但这里的汤底非常浓郁。你甚至可以额外点一勺猪油——贴切地称为"乐口福"（5元）。
中午12点 逛街购物
♥
在巨鹿路上，可以在Label Del.浏览受唐代风格启发的宽松剪裁服装，在Labelhood House选购中国新兴时装设计师的最新作品。在西南方向半英里处的五原路上，可以在The Gathering购买精美的小物件，如银杏叶形状的铜茶漏。街对面是张乐平故居——中国最早漫画家之一、《三毛》儿童漫画形象的创作者——如今是一座免费开放的博物馆。向南约一英里，永康路遍布老式店铺，例如创立于1925年的顾吉记南货行，出售遵循家族配方的酱料、滋补品和腊味等日用品。在蓓耶豆腐可以找到豆腐冰淇淋和布丁等甜点（28元起），在Yelo Bow可以品尝榴莲蛋糕（每块49元起）。
下午3点 体验传统中医
♥
下午5点 在王家卫电影中品味茶与艺
♥
2000年电影《花样年华》的粉丝们如今有了一个途径，可以步入其创作者 lush 美学的空间——位于荣宅的米其林 Prada 荣宅艺术空间，这是普拉达新开设的一个餐饮艺术空间，由香港导演王家卫参与设计。在这座修复过的约1918年宅邸的花园露台上，或是在几乎每处表面都覆盖着镜子、镀金、丝绒或漆木的装饰艺术风格房间里享用茶饮。可以点一份茶道仪式，品尝五种茶（228元），包括备受推崇的中国普洱茶。在楼上，可以参观一年两度的艺术展览，包括即将举办的一个与荷兰建筑师雷姆·库哈斯的工作室 AMO/OMA 合作、探索在数据中寻找意义的展览。
晚上7点 品味经典本帮菜
♥
想要体验1930年代的怀旧氛围和绝佳的本帮菜，请前往人和馆肇嘉浜路店。这里的氛围如果不是那么引人入胜，可能会显得有些俗气：薄荷绿的墙壁上贴满了复古海报，卡座在彩色玻璃灯下显得灯光昏暗。每晚6点到7点，大多数时候会有一位歌手在一个设计成历史悠久的百乐门舞厅模样的霓虹小舞台上演唱民歌。点一些经典的本帮咸甜菜肴，如醉虾——用高汤煮熟后浸泡在陈年梅子酒中，冷食（53元）；锅烧河鳗——红烧河鳗配薄切笋片和青椒（99元）；以及红烧肉——用酱油、绍兴酒和糖烧制的五花肉（27元起）。
晚上9点 探索另类夜生活
♥
INS 内的绿洲俱乐部
近年来，复兴公园周边地区，即南昌路和复兴路，已转变为一个低调的夜生活选择，与长期以来定义上海夜生活的电子音乐和套餐酒吧形成对比。去年开业的 Bar Leone 是一家香港引入的酒吧，供应经典鸡尾酒（128元起），并带有细微巧思，比如用橄榄油调制的丝滑威士忌酸，其空间设计风格如同意大利开胃酒吧。穿过公园，可以在 Root Down 体验日式听吧的热潮。几个街区之外，Paal 的鸡尾酒（98元起），如其用澄清酸奶制成的丝滑金菲士，灵感源自已故时装设计师维吉尔·阿布洛所谓的"百分之三原则"，即通过微小调整实现创新。对于那些想要套餐服务的人，位于复兴公园内的夜生活综合体 INS 拥有八个场馆，涵盖从中文嘻哈到 Studio 54 时代迪斯科等各种音乐类型（入场费168元起）。
星期日
上午9点 漫步于各朝代之间
♥
在大批游客涌入之前，在开放时间前往16世纪的豫园（30元起），体验江南园林设计的经典范例，其强调建筑与自然的和谐。在园林入口外，一座九曲桥——其设计初衷是为了迷惑邪灵——通向18世纪的湖心亭茶楼，该茶楼在经历两年修缮后于秋季重新开放。可以在一楼展陈区了解一下茶楼的历史，但请注意，楼上茶室设有每人388元的最低消费。可以在绿波廊享用一顿本帮小食早午餐。菜单大部分是粤式点心经典款，但口味稍偏甜。可以尝试上海名点眉毛酥——一种内馅为肉丝和蔬菜的油炸月牙形酥点（36元，三只）。
上午11点 寻觅佳偶
♥
人民公园相亲角
每周六和周日，热心的父母们会聚集在黄浦区的人民公园，在相亲角为他们的子女征婚。从人民广场地铁站通过5号口进入，很快就能看到数百个征婚启事，上面列着候选人的年龄、身高、职业、收入，甚至房产信息（值得注意的是，没有照片）。这是了解上海工薪阶层价值观的一个生动缩影。从街边小贩那里买一串糖葫芦，在银杏树下观察来往人群。或者联系 Free Tours China，定制一次包含相亲角在内的本地导览行程（1000元起）。◾
China’s second-largest city continues to transform rapidly. Beyond luxury megastores and virtual-reality experiences, Shanghai is repurposing what’s left of its unique architectural heritage into cultural and dining destinations, creating a new dynamism. A major transition to electric vehicles has helped quiet the streets, while expanded high-speed rail and metro services have made the city more accessible. Daily life in Shanghai runs almost entirely through apps — for bookings, payments and transport — which offer incredible convenience, but come with a learning curve for travelers. What is easier, however: A new 10-day visa-free transit option for visitors from dozens of countries, including the United States, is one way China is laying out the welcome mat after its border closures during the pandemic.
Itinerary
Friday
3 p.m. Go on an art walk
The Bund, Shanghai’s waterfront of neo-Gothic and Baroque- and Renaissance-style buildings along Huangpu River, once housed global titans of industry. Today, it is a contemporary art destination. Start at the Hive Center for Contemporary Art (free) for large-scale works by established Chinese artists, such as the abstract painter and sculptor Wang Wenting. Opened in 2023 in a former bank building, the gallery’s monumental stained-glass skylight alone is worth the visit. At Rockbund Art Museum, two blocks east, rotating exhibitions — such as one inspired by the work of the French theorist Suzanne Césaire (through April 26) — highlight experimental multimedia works (free). Since opening in 2024, Space 185 at Bund Art Center, a half-mile south, has put on shows pairing contemporary Chinese heavyweights such as the painters Zhao Gang and Yu Hong with global names like Anish Kapoor (free).
6 p.m. Shop for snacks
Take a six-minute Didi ride or walk just under a mile west along the neon-lit, pedestrian-only Nanjing Road, the city’s version of Times Square. Among the many mega marts is Shanghai First Food Mall, a snack and street-food emporium. On the first floor, pick up palmier-like caramelized butterfly cookies (from 40 renminbi for a box) and cream cakes from Kaisiling (from 12 renminbi for a slice), items so beloved Shanghai’s government designated them a part of the city’s non-material cultural heritage. The second floor has food vendors and a grocery, while the third floor is a medley of many of Shanghai’s popular fast-casual joints.
7 p.m. Eat crab noodles
The brackish waters of the Yangtze River Delta, where the city sits, host the pride of Shanghainese cuisine: hairy crab. Although peak harvest is in fall, some menus feature the specialty year-round. The restaurant Cejerdary, on the Bund, treats it with a special reverence, underlined by an austere dining room centered around a miniature karst landscape of bonsai. The restaurant serves crab from Yangcheng Lake, the region’s premier source. One order of stew contains the meat and roe of a dozen fist-size crabs and can be ordered over noodles or rice (from 280 renminbi). A generous splash of black vinegar helps cut through the dish’s sweet richness.
9 p.m. Enter a time warp It can be difficult to find authentic time capsules in ever-futuristic Shanghai, which has preserved relatively little of its structural heritage. That is why the Jazz Bar at the Fairmont Peace Hotel, one of the city’s oldest music venues, is so special. Since 1980, a five-piece band with rotating members (the youngest is now 70) performs from 7 to 11 p.m. every night. A singer joins in during each hour-long set for a few oldies by past stars like Teresa Teng and Zhou Xuan (418 renminbi minimum per person; drinks from 118 renminbi, snacks from 88 renminbi).
10 p.m. Take in two vistas
Shanghai functionally has two skylines: the historic Bund on the city's western Puxi side, and the sleek Pudong skyline east of the Huangpu River. To see it all in a single panorama, head to the hotel Regent Shanghai on the Bund, which opened in 2023, where the river bends just north of the main promenade. Book ahead and enjoy a bourbon cocktail (from 138 renminbi) at its terrace restaurant, Condé, while basking in Pudong’s neon glow and Puxi’s soft radiance.
Saturday
10 a.m. Go on a dumpling crawl
A single block of West Jianguo Road is a dumpling-lover’s paradise. Start at Man Man Tang Bao, where Mr. Li Dailiang and his son make to order extra delicate xiao long bao, steamed dumplings stuffed with a gelatinous pork broth that melts once it is cooked (from 20 renminbi for eight). Nearby, the circa-1885 Fuchun Xiao Long Bao does an excellent sheng jian man tou: a larger, doughier version of the soup dumplings that are pan-fried (from 18 renminbi for four). Choose between two types of wonton soup at Denglong Wonton: pork with bamboo shoots and watercress-like shepherd’s purse (25 renminbi) or pork with shrimp (32 renminbi). Although a light broth is traditional, here it is rich. You can even order an extra scoop of lard — aptly called le kou fu, or happy blessing (5 renminbi).
12 p.m. Hit the shops
On Julu Road, browse loose-structured clothing featuring motifs inspired by the Tang Dynasty at Label Del. and the latest from China’s up-and-coming fashion designers at Labelhood House. On Wuyuan Road, a half-mile southwest, shop for beautiful small objects like gingko leaf-shaped copper tea sieves at the Gathering. Across the street is the Former Residence of Zhang Leping, one of China’s first comic artists and the creator of the children’s cartoon character Sanmao (“Three Hairs"), which is now a free museum. About a mile south, Yongkang Road is dotted with old-school shops like Gu Qing Ji Nam Pak Goods, which has sold pantry items like sauces, elixirs and cured meats following family recipes since 1925. Find sweet treats like tofu-based ice cream and pudding at Beiye Tofu (from 28 renminbi) and durian cakes at Yelo Bow (from 49 renminbi for a slice).
3 p.m. Experience traditional Chinese medicine
Kang You Si Ji is a popular wellness clinic using traditional Chinese medicine with locations across the city. Head to its Jing’an branch for a full-body Tuina massage, a 2,000-year-old technique that acts on the body’s energy, or qi (from 250 renminbi for an hour). The practitioner will start by asking about your sleep, digestion and stress levels (it may help to prepare a brief written overview in Chinese), before observing your posture and locating muscle tension. Then a series of rhythmic movements will follow your body’s meridian pathways, which are thought to carry qi throughout the body. Add on an ear cleaning for 168 renminbi, a service that involves dislodging earwax with a tuning fork.
5 p.m. Enjoy tea and art in a Wong Kar-wai film
Fans of the 2000 film “In the Mood for Love” now have a way to step into its creator’s lush aesthetic at Mi Shang Prada Rong Zhai, a new dining and arts space from Prada that was designed with the Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai. Have tea on the garden terrace of the restored circa-1918 mansion or in an Art Deco room where almost every surface is mirrored, gilded, or clad in velvet or lacquered wood. Order the tea ritual to try five types (228 renminbi), including China’s coveted pu’er variety. On the upper floors, check out biannual art exhibits, including an upcoming show about finding meaning in data done in collaboration with the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas’s studio AMO/OMA.
7 p.m. Savor classic Shanghainese cuisine
For some 1930s nostalgia and excellent Shanghainese fare, head to Ren He Guan’s Zhaojiabang Road location. The atmosphere would be kitsch if it wasn’t so transporting, with mint-green walls plastered with vintage art and booths dimly lit by stained-glass lights. From 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. most nights, a singer croons folk songs on a small, neon-lit stage designed to look like the one at the Paramount, a historic night club nearby that reopened in 2017 after decades of neglect. Order classic savory-sweet dishes like zui xia, prawns poached in broth and steeped in preserved plum wine, served cold (53 renminbi); guo shao he man, braised river eels with thinly sliced bamboo shoots and peppers (99 renminbi), and hong shao rou, pork belly braised in soy sauce, Shaoxing wine and sugar (from 27 renminbi).
9 p.m. Discover the alternative after-hours
In recent years, the area around Fuxing Park, namely Nanchang Road and Fuxing Road, has turned into a lowkey alternative to the techno and bottle-service clubs that long characterized Shanghai’s nightlife. Opened last year, Bar Leone is a Hong Kong import that serves classic cocktails (from 128 renminbi) with small twists, like a velvety whiskey sour shaken with olive oil, in a space styled after an Italian aperitivo bar. Across the park, join the craze for Japanese-style listening bars at Root Down. A few blocks away, Paal’s cocktails (from 98 renminbi), like its gin fizz made silky with clarified yogurt, are inspired by the late fashion designer Virgil Abloh’s so-called “three-percent rule” of innovation via a tiny tweak. And for those who want bottle service, the nightlife complex INS, in Fuxing Park, has eight venues dedicated to various music genres, from Chinese hip-hop to Studio 54-era disco (entry from 168 renminbi).
Sunday
9 a.m. Stroll through the dynasties
Before the crowds descend, head to the 16th-century Yu Garden at opening time to experience a classic example of jiangnan design, which emphasizes harmony between architecture and nature (from 30 renminbi). Outside the garden entrance, a central bridge with nine turns — designed to confuse evil spirits — leads to the 18th-century Huxinting Teahouse, which reopened in the fall after a two-year restoration. Peek at the first-floor displays to learn about the teahouse but be warned that the upstairs tea room has a minimum spend of 388 renminbi. Enjoy a brunch of Shanghainese xiaochi, or small plates, at Lu Bo Lang. Most of the menu consists of slightly sweeter versions of Cantonese dim sum staples. Try the Shanghai delicacy mei mao su, a deep-fried crescent-shaped pastry filled with shredded pork and vegetables (36 renminbi, three pieces).
11 a.m. Find a match
Every Saturday and Sunday, well-meaning parents have gathered at People’s Park in Huangpu District to advertise their children for prospective matches at the Marriage Market. Enter from the People’s Square metro station through Gate 5 and you’ll soon arrive at hundreds of signs listing candidates’ age, height, occupation, income, and even assets (photos are notably absent). It’s a fascinating snapshot of the values of working-class Shanghai. Pick up a tang hu lu, a candied fruit stick, from a street vendor and people-watch under gingko trees. Or reach out to Free Tours China and customize a locally guided excursion that includes the Marriage Market (from 1,000 renminbi).